Winter Is Coming: 3 Must-Dos to Protect the Value of Your RV

Colorado winters can turn minor RV maintenance issues into major plumbing, water-damage, bearing, and brake repairs.

Colorado winters are hard on RVs.

Freezing temperatures, heavy snow, high winds, intense ultraviolet exposure, and repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles can turn a small maintenance problem into thousands of dollars in RV repairs.

Whether you own a travel trailer, fifth wheel, motorhome, or camper van, three preventive RV maintenance services can help protect the condition, safety, and resale value of your RV:

1. Get the water out.

2. Keep the water out.

3. Clean, inspect, repack, and properly adjust the wheel bearings.

1. Get the Water Out

Proper Colorado RV winterization protects water lines, fittings, pumps, valves, faucets, toilets, and water heaters from freeze damage.

Winterizing an RV sounds easy: drain the water, blow out the lines, and add RV antifreeze.

Unfortunately, there is an entire springtime RV repair business built around fixing broken water lines, cracked fittings, damaged water pumps, toilet valves, faucets, and split water heaters—for a reason.

Water hides in more places than most RV owners realize.

Common problem areas include:

• Water-heater tanks

• Water-heater bypass valves

• Water-pump housings

• Water-pump strainers

• Low-point drains

• Outside showers

• Exterior spray ports

• Toilet valves

• Faucets and shower valves

• Refrigerator water lines

• Ice makers

• Washing-machine hookups

• Tank-flush systems

• Water filters and filter housings

Even a small amount of trapped water can freeze and expand enough to crack a fitting or damage an expensive RV component.

Draining the Freshwater Tank Is Not Enough

Opening the freshwater-tank drain does not remove all the water from the RV plumbing system.

Water may remain trapped inside low areas, valves, pumps, fixture bodies, filters, check valves, and appliance connections. Some components can hold water even after the faucets appear to stop flowing.

A complete RV winterization may involve:

• Draining the freshwater tank

• Draining the water heater

• Bypassing the water heater

• Opening the low-point drains

• Removing or bypassing water filters

• Clearing hot- and cold-water lines

• Protecting faucets and shower valves

• Protecting the toilet valve

• Protecting exterior showers and spray ports

• Protecting the water pump and strainer

• Winterizing appliance water lines

• Adding RV antifreeze where required

• Verifying that every water-using component has been addressed

Water Heaters Require Special Attention

An RV water heater can hold several gallons of water. If that water freezes, the expanding ice can damage the tank and create an expensive repair.

The water heater must be drained correctly, and the electrical heating element must be turned off before the tank is empty. Energizing an electric element in an empty water heater can destroy the element quickly.

The water-heater bypass valves must also be placed in the correct winterization position. Otherwise, gallons of RV antifreeze may be wasted filling the water-heater tank instead of protecting the plumbing lines.

Blow-Out Method or RV Antifreeze?

Some RVs can be protected using properly regulated compressed air. Others benefit from pumping nontoxic RV antifreeze through the plumbing system. Depending on the RV, its equipment, and Colorado’s expected temperatures, a combination of both methods may offer the best protection.

Compressed air must be regulated. Excessive pressure can damage RV plumbing fittings and fixtures.

Automotive antifreeze should never be used in an RV freshwater system. Only antifreeze specifically intended for RV and potable-water-system winterization should be used.

Do Not Forget the Drain Traps and Tanks

Water can also remain in sink traps, shower drains, waste valves, and holding-tank plumbing. RV antifreeze is commonly used to protect drain traps and help protect the termination-valve area.

Holding tanks should be emptied before storage. Leaving waste in a tank through winter can create odors, buildup, valve problems, and a miserable repair in the spring.

Why Proper RV Winterization Protects Resale Value

Freeze damage is not always discovered immediately. A fitting hidden behind a wall, beneath a cabinet, or inside an enclosed underbelly may not begin leaking until the system is pressurized next spring.

By then, water may damage:

• Cabinets

• Flooring

• Insulation

• Wall panels

• The enclosed underbelly

• Electrical components

• Structural wood

A professional RV winterization costs far less than locating and repairing a hidden plumbing leak.

Bottom line: Get all the water out before the first hard freeze—not after the forecast changes.

2. Keep the Water Out

An RV roof and exterior-seal inspection can identify cracked sealant, brittle plastic parts, loose trim, and damaged seals before winter moisture enters the RV.

Winterizing the plumbing protects the inside of the water system. It does not protect the roof, walls, windows, doors, slide-outs, or exterior openings from water intrusion.

Small cracks in RV roof sealant allow water to enter. During Colorado’s repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles, that moisture freezes, expands, and makes the opening larger.

A minor sealant failure can eventually cause:

• Roof damage

• Wall delamination

• Mold and mildew

• Rotted wood

• Wet insulation

• Damaged flooring

• Interior staining

• Expensive structural repairs

Inspect Every Potential Water-Entry Point

Before winter, inspect these common RV water-entry points:

• Roof seams and transition joints

• Front and rear termination bars

• Plumbing vents

• Roof vents and vent lids

• Skylights

• Air-conditioner openings

• Antennas and solar-panel mounts

• Windows and exterior doors

• Power-cord hatches

• Range-hood exhaust vents

• Corner trim and vinyl screw-cover trim

• Exterior storage compartments

• Slide-out wiper and bulb seals

• Marker lights and exterior fixtures

Finding a crack is only part of the inspection. The surrounding material should also be checked for softness, movement, staining, previous repair attempts, and other evidence that water may already have entered.

Replace Aging Plastic Before Colorado Winter Replaces It for You

Many RV manufacturers use plastic roof vents, plumbing-vent caps, power-cord hatches, and range-hood vents.

Plastic keeps the original manufacturing cost and weight down, but years of ultraviolet exposure can leave these components faded, chalky, warped, cracked, and brittle.

Then Colorado adds freezing temperatures, heavy snow, ice, hail, and high winds.

If an exterior plastic component has become brittle or damaged, replacing it with aluminum may provide a stronger, longer-lasting solution.

RV Plumbing Roof Vent Caps

The plumbing vent cap protects the opening around the RV’s waste-tank vent pipe. When the plastic cap cracks or disappears, the vent assembly and roof penetration become more exposed to rain, snow, debris, and ultraviolet damage.

An RV Plumbing Roof Vent Aluminum Cap Kit provides a metal replacement for a commonly damaged plastic roof component.

Correct fit, roof preparation, compatible sealant, and careful installation remain essential. Aluminum does not prevent leaks if the base is installed over failed sealant or an improperly prepared roof surface.

14-by-14-Inch RV Roof Vent Lids

Standard 14-by-14-inch RV roof-vent lids receive constant exposure to sunlight and weather. Once the original plastic becomes brittle, snow, wind, hail, or even opening the vent can cause it to crack.

The 14x14 RV Roof Vent Cover Lid Aluminum Replacement replaces compatible plastic vent lids with corrosion-resistant aluminum.

Safoner lists this lid for certain Ventline and Elixir vent assemblies, so the existing hinge style and operating mechanism must be identified before ordering.

This is an important distinction: “14-by-14” describes a common RV roof opening, but it does not guarantee that every replacement lid fits every vent. The hinge and lifting mechanism must match.

RV Power-Cord Hatch Covers

Power-cord hatches are often overlooked during an RV exterior inspection.

A cracked hatch door, damaged frame, missing seal, or loose installation can expose the wall or electrical-compartment area to rain and melting snow.

The Aluminum RV Power Cord Hatch Cover for 30A/50A Plugs is a durable replacement option for compatible RV power-cord openings.

Before installation, verify:

• Opening dimensions

• Cord and plug configuration

• Mounting-surface condition

• Door clearance

• Fastener locations

• Required sealing method

This is especially important on older RVs where the existing plastic hatch may appear acceptable until the door breaks off or the frame cracks around its mounting screws.

RV Stove and Range-Hood Vent Covers

The exterior range-hood vent is another inexpensive plastic part protecting a hole through the RV wall.

These covers can crack, warp, lose their flaps, or separate from the siding. Failed sealant around the vent can also allow water to enter the RV wall.

The RV Aluminum Stove Vent Cover offers an adjustable aluminum replacement for compatible range-hood exhaust openings.

It includes butyl tape, but correct surface preparation, fastening, sealing, and fit remain critical. Replacing the cover without correcting failed sealant or damaged wall material behind it will not solve the underlying water-intrusion problem.

Inspect Every Door and Compartment Seal

Rubber seals shrink, flatten, tear, pull loose, and harden with age. A seal can still be present while no longer applying enough pressure to keep out wind-driven rain or melting snow.

Pay close attention to:

• Entry-door seals

• Exterior storage-compartment seals

• Baggage-door seals

• Outdoor-kitchen seals

• Utility-compartment seals

• Electrical-compartment seals

• Slide-out bulb seals

• Slide-out wiper seals

Trim-Lok P-shaped EPDM seals are available in multiple profiles for doors, hatches, access panels, and other applications requiring a compressible weather seal.

The correct profile must be selected according to:

• Mounting surface

• Gap size

• Bulb diameter

• Required compression

• Exposure to weather

• Door or hatch closing pressure

A thicker seal is not automatically better. If the seal is too large, the door may not close or latch correctly. If it is too small, it may never make sufficient contact to keep water out.

Secure Loose and Exposed Edges

For damaged or unfinished panel edges, Trim-Lok Edge Trim Plus uses flexible gripping tongues to help the trim hold onto a compatible edge.

It can protect exposed edges and provide a cleaner, more secure finish where old trim has become loose or damaged.

Edge trim should not be confused with a weather seal. Its primary purpose is protecting and finishing an edge. Effective water management may still require compatible sealant or a separate bulb seal.

Do Not Ignore Your RV Slide-Out Seals

Slide-outs create some of the largest openings in an RV. They depend on wiper seals and compressible bulb seals to direct water away and close the gaps between the slide room and RV.

Slide seals should be inspected with the room both extended and retracted.

Look for:

• Torn or split rubber

• Seals pulling away from the wall

• Hardened or flattened bulb seals

• Wipers that do not flip in the proper direction

• Open corners and gaps

• Missing adhesive or fasteners

• Water staining inside the RV

• Debris preventing full seal contact

The Trim-Lok All-in-One RV Slide-Out Seal System combines the wiper and bulb-seal functions into an integrated system designed to create a watertight seal around compatible RV slide rooms.

Slide-out seals are not universal. The mounting style, flange thickness, bulb size, sweep length, corner design, and slide-room clearance must all be evaluated before selecting replacement material.

Metal Parts Still Require Proper Installation

Upgrading brittle plastic pieces to aluminum can reduce the likelihood of future cracking, but the material alone does not make an installation waterproof.

A professional installation should address:

• Compatibility with the existing opening

• Removal of failed sealant and butyl tape

• Inspection for hidden water damage

• Proper surface cleaning and preparation

• Correct fasteners

• Appropriate butyl tape

• Roof- or sidewall-compatible sealant

• Sealing of fastener heads and exterior edges

• Final leak inspection

Bottom line: Inspect the complete RV exterior before winter. Repair failed sealant, replace brittle plastic components, secure loose trim, and replace seals that no longer maintain proper contact. Keeping water out is far less expensive than repairing the damage after it gets inside.

3. Service and Properly Adjust the Wheel Bearings

Removing the hubs allows the RV wheel bearings, races, grease seals, brake shoes, magnets, wiring, and drums to be properly cleaned and inspected.

Your RV may sit all winter, but that does not mean its wheel bearings, grease seals, hubs, and electric trailer brakes can be ignored.

Old wheel-bearing grease collects moisture, brake dust, road grime, microscopic metal particles, and other contamination. When an RV sits through a Colorado winter, moisture inside the hub can contribute to corrosion and pitting on the bearings and races.

A proper RV wheel-bearing service involves much more than pumping fresh grease through an E-Z Lube fitting.

The hubs should be removed so the bearings, races, grease seals, brake assemblies, magnets, wiring, and inside surfaces of the drums can be properly cleaned and inspected.

What a Complete RV Wheel-Bearing Service Should Include

• Safely raising and supporting the RV

• Removing the wheels and hub-and-drum assemblies

• Removing the old grease and contamination

• Cleaning the bearings and hub cavities

• Inspecting bearings and races for scoring, pitting, heat damage, and discoloration

• Inspecting the spindle and grease-seal surface

• Inspecting the brake shoes, magnets, springs, adjusters, wiring, and drums

• Repacking the bearings with the correct wheel-bearing grease

• Installing correctly sized new double-lip grease seals

• Reinstalling the hubs and correctly adjusting the wheel bearings

• Adjusting and testing the electric trailer brakes

• Torquing the wheels to the proper manufacturer specification

Always Replace the Grease Seals

Removing an RV hub usually damages or distorts the existing grease seal. Reusing the old seal risks allowing grease to leak into the brake drum and contaminate the brake shoes.

A double-lip grease seal is designed to retain grease inside the hub while helping exclude water and road grime.

The GS-2125DL Double-Lip Grease Seal is one example used on certain Dexter 5,200- to 7,000-pound axle applications.

Its listed dimensions are:

• 2.125-inch inside diameter

• 3.376-inch outside diameter

• 0.31-inch thickness

Those measurements matter. Even axles with the same weight rating may use different grease-seal sizes.

For example, some 7,000-pound axles use a 2.125-inch seal surface, while others use a 2.250-inch seal. The correct seal should be identified using the axle information, the number on the existing seal, or accurate measurements of the seal and spindle.

Never order a grease seal based only on the trailer’s year, model, or axle capacity.

Installing the wrong seal can create a grease leak, damage the seal surface, contaminate the brakes, or allow water and road grime into the hub.

Use Quality, Compatible Wheel-Bearing Grease

Colorado RV Service uses Lucas Red “N” Tacky Grease for compatible RV trailer wheel-bearing applications.

Quality wheel-bearing grease must remain in place while handling heat, pressure, vibration, storage, and changing weather conditions. However, adding good grease on top of old, contaminated grease is not the same as servicing the bearings.

During a proper bearing repack, the old grease is removed so the bearings and races can be cleaned and inspected. The bearings are then completely repacked with fresh grease rather than merely coated on the outside.

Different grease formulations are not always compatible. Mixing unknown grease types can change the consistency and performance of the lubricant. When the existing grease cannot be positively identified, removing the old grease before introducing a new product is the safest approach.

The hub also should not be packed completely solid unless the axle or hub manufacturer specifically requires it. Excess grease can build pressure, damage a seal, and push lubricant into the brake area.

Correct Bearing Adjustment Is Critical

Trailer tapered-roller bearings require the correct adjustment and endplay.

The bearings must first be properly seated. The final adjustment must then follow the axle manufacturer’s procedure and match the spindle-nut retention system.

Bearings adjusted too loosely can cause:

• Excessive hub movement

• Uneven bearing and race wear

• Brake-drum movement

• Poor braking performance

• Grease-seal damage

• Wheel wobble

Bearings adjusted too tightly can cause:

• Excessive heat

• Grease breakdown

• Accelerated bearing wear

• Spindle damage

• Bearing seizure

• Hub or wheel failure

This is why tightening the spindle nut until it “feels good” is not an acceptable bearing-service procedure.

Inspect the Electric Trailer Brakes While the Hubs Are Off

Removing the hubs for an RV bearing repack provides direct access to the electric trailer brakes. This is the right time to inspect them—not after weak or uneven braking appears on the highway.

The inspection should include:

• Brake-shoe thickness and condition

• Grease contamination on the brake shoes

• Cracked or separated friction material

• Uneven brake-shoe wear

• Magnet wear

• Magnet wiring and electrical connections

• Return springs and hold-down hardware

• Adjusters and self-adjusting components

• Drum scoring and heat damage

• Correct left- and right-side orientation

If grease has passed through a failed seal and contaminated the brake shoes, cleaning the surface may not restore dependable braking. Grease can soak into the friction material, making replacement of the affected brake assembly the safer repair.

Complete backing-plate assemblies are often a practical replacement because they include new shoes, magnets, springs, and adjusters in one matched assembly.

For example, these self-adjusting electric trailer brakes are a matched left- and right-hand set specifically designed for compatible 10,000-pound axles.

They measure 12¼ inches by 3⅜ inches and require a compatible seven-bolt mounting flange.

That particular brake set is intended for heavy-duty 10,000-pound axle applications. It is not the correct brake assembly for the more common 3,500-, 5,200-, 6,000-, or 7,000-pound RV axles.

Replacement trailer brakes must be matched to:

• Axle capacity

• Brake-drum diameter and width

• Mounting-flange bolt pattern

• Left- or right-hand position

• Manual- or self-adjusting design

• Hub-and-drum compatibility

• Wheel size and clearance

Winter Is the Right Time to Find Problems

Wheel-bearing and brake problems do not improve while an RV sits in storage.

Winter service gives you time to identify worn bearings, damaged races, leaking grease seals, weak magnets, contaminated brakes, damaged wiring, or scored drums before the first trip of spring.

It also avoids discovering the problem alongside the highway with a hot hub, failed bearing, damaged spindle, or RV that will not stop correctly.

Bottom line: Remove the hubs, clean out the old grease, inspect the bearings and brakes, install correctly sized double-lip grease seals, repack the bearings with quality compatible grease, and adjust the bearings according to the axle manufacturer’s procedure.

Protect Your RV Before Colorado Winter Arrives

The three most important preventive RV maintenance steps are simple to remember:

1. Get the water out.

2. Keep the water out.

3. Clean, inspect, repack, and properly adjust the wheel bearings.

Skipping these services can lead to:

• Frozen and cracked plumbing

• Damaged water heaters

• Hidden water leaks

• Roof and wall damage

• Mold and rotted wood

• Failed wheel bearings

• Contaminated trailer brakes

• Expensive roadside repairs

• Reduced RV resale value

Colorado RV Service provides professional mobile RV service throughout Colorado’s Front Range, including RV winterization, RV roof inspections, exterior sealing, vent and hatch replacement, slide-out seal service, travel-trailer bearing repacks, and electric trailer brake inspections.

Do not wait until the first deep freeze—or until you discover the damage next spring.

Schedule Your Colorado RV Winterization and Maintenance

Protect your travel trailer, fifth wheel, or motorhome before winter arrives.

Contact Colorado RV Service today to schedule mobile RV winterization, roof and exterior-seal inspection, or RV wheel-bearing and brake service.

ColoradoRVService.com

303-525-7894

Colorado RV Service

Mobile RV Repair & Inspections

Travel Trailer • Fifth Wheel • Toy Hauler • Motorhome

Call today to schedule before winter hits.